how to stitch blouse piping neck

Applying Decorative Cord Trim to Garment Necklines

Overview

Decorative cord, often referred to as "piping," adds a defined edge and visual interest to garment necklines. Successful application requires precise preparation, careful stitching, and attention to detail to ensure a smooth, professional finish.

Materials and Tools

  • Fabric: Main garment fabric and bias tape fabric (for creating or purchasing piping).
  • Cord: Cotton or polyester cord in the desired thickness and color.
  • Sewing Machine: Equipped with a zipper foot or piping foot.
  • Thread: Matching thread for both the piping and garment fabrics.
  • Scissors: For precise cutting of fabric and cord.
  • Pins: Fine pins for securing the piping to the garment.
  • Iron: For pressing seams and shaping the piping.
  • Measuring Tools: Ruler or measuring tape for accurate measurements.

Piping Preparation

Piping can be created using bias tape and cord. Bias tape allows the piping to curve smoothly around necklines.

Creating Bias Tape

  • Cut strips of fabric on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the grain).
  • Join the strips together to create the required length of bias tape.
  • Press the seams open.

Enclosing the Cord

  • Fold the bias tape in half, wrong sides together, and press.
  • Insert the cord into the fold.
  • Stitch close to the cord, using a zipper foot or piping foot.

Alternative: Purchasing Pre-Made Piping

Pre-made piping is readily available in various colors and sizes.

Attaching the Piping

The process involves securing the piping between the main fabric and the facing or lining.

Securing the Piping to the Garment

  • Place the piping along the right side of the garment neckline, with the raw edges aligned.
  • Pin the piping in place, easing it around curves. Clip into the seam allowance of the piping's tape in curves to allow it to lay flat.
  • Using a zipper foot or piping foot, stitch the piping to the garment neckline, as close to the cord as possible.

Attaching the Facing or Lining

  • Place the facing or lining right side down on top of the garment, sandwiching the piping between the garment and the facing/lining.
  • Pin in place.
  • Stitch around the neckline, using the previous stitching line as a guide.

Finishing

Clipping and Notching

Clip into the seam allowance around the neckline, especially in curved areas, to reduce bulk and allow the neckline to lay flat.

Understitching

Understitch the facing/lining to the seam allowance, close to the seam, to prevent the facing/lining from rolling to the right side of the garment.

Pressing

Turn the facing/lining to the inside of the garment. Press the neckline from the right side, ensuring the piping is neatly exposed and the seam is smooth.

Troubleshooting

  • Uneven Piping: Ensure consistent seam allowance and ease the piping evenly around curves.
  • Puckering: Clip the seam allowance adequately and consider using a slightly smaller stitch length.
  • Visible Stitches: Use a matching thread and stitch close to the cord.